Field Guide: the Welsh Borders | Wye Valley & Powys
Cosy cabins & cottages, the best places to shop for books & antiques, and the places to get out in the fresh air
Over the past few years, I have unintentionally spent quite a lot of time in the Welsh borders, from Radnorshire in Powys to the lower reaches of the Wye Valley. This region of the borders, from Presteigne down to the Forest of Dean, offers beautiful landscapes, intriguing small towns and many, many interesting places to explore, eat, drink and shop. Not to mention, you’re spoilt for choice for places to stay.
If you’re planning on visiting this region, I’ve rounded up my choice of eight places to stay that encourage a slower pace of travel, ranging from a small hotel I loved staying in last year to a selection of stylish cabins and cottages (some of which I’ve previously stayed in, others from my wishlist). I’m also sharing the best towns to wander around, where to shop for books and antiques, a town filled with excellent charity shops, some of the best places to eat and drink, local makers, wild swimming spots, and places to get out in the fresh air and clear your head.
This is the first edition of my new series of mini-guides, entitled Field Guides. I’ll be sharing at least one of these guides a month for my paid subscribers. It’s quite a long read, and may cut off in your emails so is best viewed on the Substack app or website.
Where to stay
I stayed in Hergest Lee’s Cabin a couple of years ago, and it remains one of my favourite places I’ve slept in the UK. Located in Burlingjobb (25 minutes from Hay-on-Wye), owners Rachael and Paul have built two remarkable cabins next door to the barn conversion that they live in (the other cabin, the Lean-to, is attached to the end of their barn). Both holiday-lets are beautifully designed, with clever layouts and a Mid-Century aesthetic. With huge bath tubs, nooks and crannies for escaping to read your book, and views of the hills opposite, you’ll never want to leave.
Located just ten minutes down the road (there’s so much going on around Old and New Radnor), Highbrook Cottage is a beautifully designed, cosy cottage owned and run by the couple behind low-intervention vineyard, Whinyard Rocks. Owners Susan and James moved from London back to James’s family farm several years ago, to plant their first vineyard and renovate Highbrook Cottage into a boutique hideaway. Inside, the two-bed cottage is cosy yet stylish, decorated in a pink and green colour palette to reference it’s luscious green surroundings. The vineyard is just around the corner and guests can add a couple of bottles of wine onto their stay. I stayed here last summer on to photograph the cottage, and was blown away by the cosy interiors, the impressive vineyard and fledgling flower field, and Susan’s warm welcome.
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